HOMECOMING - loving Grand Manan from two perspectives

“In the beginning, God created the heavens .... and Grand Manan Island".

Ok, maybe that sounds a bit over the top, but to me, this island is one seriously incredible destination.

First of all, I should preface with this…Grand Manan is my hometown, so yeah, I’m a bit biased. But that aside, it’s breathtakingly beautiful, peaceful and untouched by commercial distraction. Like, really, really untouched. We’re talking no mall, no movie theater, not even a Tim Hortons.

When you come to Grand Manan, you come to ‘get away from it all’. This is the perfect place to unwind and recharge your proverbial batteries. It’s a tranquil haven surrounded by awe-inspiring views, majestic cliffs, stretches of sandy beaches and gorgeous seascapes; truly paradise found! When you’re here, you’re on “Island Time”; the pace is slower, life’s daily ebb and flow guided by the rhythm of the tides for most residents. But for heaven’s sake, if you are looking for nightlife and bright lights you won't find it here! UNLESS your idea of those things is Friday night fiddle music at Romig’s Barn or watching the sunset at the end of the Whistle Road (both of which I highly recommend by the way).

For those of you who know nothing about Grand Manan, here’s a little background. It’s a small island located in the middle of the Bay of Fundy originally discovered by the First Nations tribes who referred to the island as “Mananook” (meaning Island Place). Predominately a fishing community, the island inhabits approximately 2500 people along its rugged shoreline and is the largest of the Fundy Isles.

For me, growing up in this coastal community was nothing but happy. I was content here. I am a bit of an old soul so I didn’t mind the quiet lifestyle. The family, friends and heritage on this island created a strong foundation for me. It’s a bit difficult to fully articulate what it’s like to be from Grand Manan, but I know other islanders feel as I do; like we really are the lucky ones to call it home. The island’s raw beauty, mystique and its people have truly impacted my spirit. I am woven into the fabric of this island and I feel so proud to be part of such a beautiful tapestry.

When it came time to leave the island to attend university, I was totally heart sick. I mean, let’s face it, getting across a body of water at the mercy of a ferry schedule and temperamental east coast weather doesn’t make it easy to get home on a whim. I was homesick before I even left! Leaving this place and moving to the city was kin to trying to fit a puzzle piece into the wrong puzzle…I was totally out of place and context.

Nevertheless, I soldiered on and completed my education. Eventually I fell in love, got married and have built a life here in the city of Saint John with my husband of 12 years and 3 gorgeous little girls. I am happy and content; two things I never thought I’d feel and simultaneously be away from the island. Although I still make my bi-annual pilgrimage to the island and ache to have a place of my own over there someday, I’ve realized one thing over the last 15 years…in any place you live, it’s not the physical location of your home, but the PEOPLE in it that make it home. The community, bonds and friendships formed over the last decade and a half of living in Saint John are what has anchored me here.

Speaking of friendships, insert Jennifer Yeomans. We met 10 years ago as new mothers in a Babies in the Library program and became fast friends. We have spent many a playdate together and have bonded over motherhood, love of tea, books, and our mutual affinity for the ocean.

It was not until the summer of 2016 did the idea of travelling to Grand Manan together first take root. We had always spent time together with our children in tow, but we decided to start making a little time for ourselves to just relax and unwind, and Grand Manan seemed like the perfect place to accomplish this. Along with our 2 of our closest friends we boarded the Grand Manan ferry early one July morning and the journey began…completely ensconced in thick fog, may I add.

Now I had planned for weeks to prepare an itinerary that would be both enjoyable and authentic, and- true to my word- the thick, enveloping fog was very “authentic” Grand Manan weather! Certainly not the first impression I was hoping for! But no sooner had we disembarked the ferry, did the fog begin to dissipate and was replaced with glorious sunshine and warm temps. “Custom ordered!” I told them with a laugh. It was like a good omen signalling what was to come.

Only minutes off the ferry we arrived at our destination, Sea Cliff Cottage Suites. Honestly, I could not have painted a lovelier picture; the seaside accommodations were perfect. At that time the proprietors were Sue and Clyde, who were there to greet us in the driveway with hugs for us all. Talk about island hospitality at its finest! I’ll never forget Sue (whom I had never met before) wrapping me up in warm hug and saying “Welcome Home, Sarah!” Just remembering her words makes me smile. Her welcome resonated in my heart because I feel somehow she knew just how much it meant for me to be back HOME. With so much planned, and anticipation nipping at our heels, I could hardly wait to show my dearest friends all I that I had and store for them in hopes that they would discover for themselves the island’s great allure. Maybe then they would understand why it has always been so cherished to me.

The next 24 hours were a flurry of well-paced activity. After a light lunch at a charming little inn called The Compass Rose and brief stop at Pettes’ Cove, a small but photogenic beach and totally worth a visit, the activity didn’t stop. Coffee and croissants at the North Head Bakery, (also try the Saint John River Valley Bread; it’s the best bread ever); dinner at Inn at Whale Cove Cottages (a MUST), an evening hike to Swallowtail Lighthouse (DO IT!), beaching combing on Stanley’s Beach (not named after me, but I used to pretend I owned it. Also, check out the AMAZING raft at this beach, coincidentally built by my own father). We even managed to catch the Canada Day fireworks from the front sitting room in our cottage! You guys, DO NOT let anyone tell you there’s nothing to do on this island…its brimming with uncovered adventures and memories just waiting to be made, you just have to be willing to look. Being a native islander, even I experienced “a first”…Afternoon Tea at Harrington Cove Cottages is an ABSOLUTE MUST if you’re looking for a quaint, ocean-side setting…not to mention the tea and homemade scones for a flat rate of $5! My first, but not my last time doing this!

You know, the old cliché is so true; “Home is where the heart is”. Although I wouldn’t trade my life today for the world, my heart and mind are never far from Grand Manan Island. Returning home never fails to smooth out all my mind’s frayed edges and settles my spirit…it’s practically restoration for the soul.

It is so easy to take for granted any good thing we are given in this life, like being born and raised in a place like Grand Manan. But had I never left the island for school, I don’t think I personally would have ever been able to see it for what it truly is and the untapped potential that it still has. Despite its shortcomings (and EVERY place has a few), the sense of belonging, the small town hospitality and the true warmth of the Grand Manan people shine brighter to me than anything else. I know I will always feel this way…the island is just part of who I am. A constant in my life- it has always been there in the distance bracketing my heart and beckoning me home.

Creating the opportunity to showcase the island to my friends was pivotal for me. Exploring it together was like seeing it for the first time in a sense; through a fresh set of eyes, untainted and framed by nothing but the sublime beauty that was presented to us. Through this lens, Grand Manan was even more bright and dazzling than I ever recalled. It left me spellbound and wanting more.

The moral of the story is this: COME TO GRAND MANAN! Or if you’re fortunate enough to presently live there, then explore your own backyard and PLAY TOURIST ON GRAND MANAN! And if you’ve already been and love it or want to see more, then COME BACK TO GRAND MANAN! And if you’ve done both and never shared the island with anyone else, then COME BACK TO GRAND MANAN WITH FRIENDS! And come with an appetite to share and experience the island like never before.

With eyes wide open, you may find that it’s the Homecoming you’ve been waiting for.

Sarah

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That is me, second from the right. I have lived in Saint John, New Brunswick all my life. I have vacationed too many different places - even as far away as Panama, but Grand Manan was never a place I really thought about or had any intentions of going to.

Before I continue, I feel like I have to step back for a minute...well actually 10 years so you can understand how I finally made the trip that would make me yearn for more.

I had my first baby in the Summer of 2008. As a new mom I wanted to meet other moms. I decide to join a program called Babies in the Library, a group that brings moms and babies together through songs, rhymes and stories. I ended up meeting a great group of girls that I would become friends with but it was one of those girls that I would end up having a lasting friendship that has spanned a decade. She happens to be not only my friend, but my confidante, "life support" and my partner in this blog journey.

That is Sarah, on the far left. Sarah is from Grand Manan. She has often spoken of her roots with so much emotion you could feel it deep in her soul. She always said - "someday I am going to take you there".

We finally made the trip in the Summer of 2016 when she spontaneously planned a detailed 32hr trip for me and two other of our dear friends with a two week notice. Now you might not think that is a big deal but between the four of us we have 12 children.

This would be a trip that would change all my misconceptions of this island and open my eyes to the beauty that was right in my backyard.

We left Saint John in typical fog and arrived in Grand Manan to beautiful sunshine. The weather turned out to be fantastic for our short trip. We checked into our cottage at SeaCliff Cottage Suites, and it was everything and more than I had imagined. Then owners, Sue and Clyde, went above and beyond for our one night stay. Every nook of the cottage was decorated with Seaglass and fresh flowers from Sue's garden, soaps and lotions made locally, which would begin my love for everything jasmine. They even went as far as to surprise us with a lobster dip, and chocolates at the end of our amazing day. I felt like I was being welcomed home.

The entire trip was a love affair with the island and we explored it that day from tip to tip; but if I had to choose my three favourite parts I would say: visiting Southern Head, having tea in Harrington's Cove and sunset at Swallowtail Lighthouse.

Southern Head is the secret gem of the island. Imagine my surprise when I was presented with this incredible vista that contained coastal cliffs I had only seen in my travels to Mexico. (WHAT!?! I LIVE HERE!?!) Cliffs that ranged from 220-350 ft high. I was in pure awe over its beauty.

If you are a tea lover like me, when you are presented the opportunity to visit a tea house on the island that charges $5.00 for tea and homemade scones and jelly, you say, "heck yes"! Located in Harrington's Cove in a homestead with weathered cedar shingles, a red roof and large covered porch, overlooking deep blue, crystal waters, was nothing but the best for a pot of tea. Somehow colours seem to be brighter in Grand Manan.

After a busy day and an outstanding dinner at Inn at Whale Cove we got ready to head to Swallowtail Lighthouse where we unexpectedly caught the sunset. Can you imagine for a moment, sitting on a cliff on an island in the middle of the Bay of Fundy, surrounded by so much beauty, and watching the sunset with your forever friends?

Leaving the island was bittersweet (reminiscing about the memories made as the ferry pulls away from the dock) but I knew that I would be back.

It would be impossible not to fall in love with this island; and what surprises me the most is that I have been back for two more visits since and not one has been the same.

Jennifer

Side note: We experienced so much more than retold here. You definitely need to make a visit or two or three to North Head Bakery for a latte and chocolate croissant. Also, check out the Cheeky Magpie for vintage and local finds.